As Thanksgiving Day approaches, most of us are anticipating
the roast turkey, family-recipe stuffing, buttery mashed potatoes, giblet
gravy, sweet-tart cranberry sauce and cinnamon-spiced pumpkin pie that will
adorn our dinner tables. Many of us also assume that these dishes are inspired
by what the Pilgrims and Native Americans consumed when they first gathered
centuries ago.
We’re wrong.
The first Thanksgiving feast was in 1621, and while there is
no exact evidence of the actual date, it is thought to have ta
ken
place over the course of three days sometime between late September and early
November.
A detailed description of the feast comes from a letter
written by Edward Winslow to a friend in December, 1621. From his account,
historians only know for certain that venison and fowl, which may have included
wild turkey, were served at that first meal. However, they do have a good idea
of what foods were available to the colonists at the time. These may have
included:
·
Seafood: cod, eel, bass, clams, lobsters,
mussels
·
Fowl: wild turkey, goose, duck, crane, swan,
partridge, eagles
·
Meat: venison
·
Grains: wheat flour, Indian corn, and barley
·
Vegetables: squashes (including pumpkin), peas,
beans, onions, leeks, lettuce, radishes, carrots
·
Fruits: plums, grapes
·
Nuts: walnuts, chestnuts, acorns
·
Other: Olive oil (brought over with them),
liverwort, watercress, sorrel, yarrow, maple syrup, honey, and small amounts of
butter, cheese and eggs
Some of our most popular Thanksgiving dishes would have
never appeared on the 1621 table. Ham was probably off the menu; the Pilgrims
did bring pigs over with them, but historians have found no evidence that any
had been butchered.
Sweet potatoes and white potatoes were not a part of the
meal since they were not yet common in New England.
Also, scratch off cranberry sauce from the list. While the colonists did have
cranberries, they didn’t have sugar.
What about that famous Thanksgiving dessert, pumpkin pie?
Sorry. While the colonists did eat stewed pumpkin sweetened with syrup or
honey, pumpkin pie was not a recipe that existed at the time.
If you would like to add some historic Thanksgiving dishes
to this year’s meal, here are a few Colonial-inspired recipes courtesy of the
Plimoth Plantation in
Plymouth, Massachusetts for you to try at home. The Stewed Pompion (the English word
for squash), Onion Sauce for Roast Turkey, and
Sobaheg (a Wampanoag stew great for leftover turkey) are modern versions
of 1600s recipes. Each should bring the spirit of that first
Thanksgiving to your own celebration.
Stewed Pompion
4 cups cooked (boiled, steamed or baked) squash, roughly
mashed
3 tablespoons butter
2 to 3 teaspoons cider vinegar
1 or 2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
In a saucepan over medium heat, stir and heat all the
ingredients together. Adjust seasonings to taste, and serve hot.
Onion Sauce for
Roast Turkey
6 medium onions, sliced thinly
2 cups of water
2 teaspoons of coarsely ground pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup breadcrumbs (optional)
Follow your favorite recipe for roast turkey. Remove the
turkey to a platter reserving the pan juices.
Place thinly sliced onions in a pot with water and salt.
Bring to a boil over medium high heat and cook until the onions are tender but
not mushy. A good deal of the water should have boiled away. Set aside for a
moment.
Place the roasting pan over medium heat and stir to loosen
any brown bits. Stir in the onion sauce, sugar, vinegar and breadcrumbs if
desired. Add pepper to taste and adjust seasonings. To serve, pour over sliced
turkey or serve alongside in a separate dish.
Sobaheg made with Turkey
1/2 pound dry beans (white, red, brown, or spotted
kidney-shaped beans)
1/2 pound yellow samp or coarse grits
1 pound turkey meat (legs or breast, with bone and skin)
3 quarts cold water
1/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
1/2 pound winter squash, trimmed and cubed
1/2 cup raw sunflower seed meats, pounded to a coarse flour
Combine dried beans, corn, turkey, and water in a large pot.
Bring to a simmer over medium heat, turn down to a very low simmer, and cook
for about 2 1/2 hours. Stir occasionally to be certain that the bottom is not
sticking.
When dried beans are tender, but not mushy, break up turkey
meat, removing skin and bones. Add green beans and squash, and simmer very
gently until they are tender.
Add sunflower flour, stirring until thoroughly blended.
Please note: All photos are courtsey of the Plimoth Plantation.